Start with the wall, not the showroom
Most vanity regrets come from buying the unit first and trying to make the room fit it. Start by measuring the wall the vanity will sit on, then mark what has to stay clear: the swing of the entry door, the shower screen or door, the toilet and the path people walk through the room.
A common planning rule of thumb is to keep somewhere around 800 to 900 mm of clear floor in front of the vanity so someone can stand at the basin and open the drawers without backing into the toilet or the shower. In a tight room you can get away with less, but drawers that cannot fully open are the first sign a vanity is too big.
Also note where the existing waste and water pipes come out of the wall or floor. Moving them is possible, but on a concrete slab it can mean cutting the floor, so a vanity that suits the current plumbing position is usually the easier choice.
Standard vanity sizes
Width
Stock vanities are generally made in steps:
- 600 mm — powder rooms, small ensuites and tight second bathrooms
- 750 mm — a compact single basin with a little bench either side
- 900 mm — the common size for a single-basin family bathroom
- 1,200 mm — a generous single basin, or a tight double
- 1,500 mm and 1,800 mm — comfortable double basins with bench space between
A double vanity only really works from about 1,200 mm, and it is much more comfortable at 1,500 mm or wider. On a shorter wall, one basin with a wide benchtop and two banks of drawers is often more practical than two cramped basins.
Depth
Standard depths are roughly 450 to 500 mm. Slim-line vanities of around 300 to 400 mm suit narrow rooms and hallways, but check that the basin you want fits the shallower top and that there is still room for the waste trap behind the drawers.
Height
Most finished tops sit around 850 to 900 mm from the floor. Older bathrooms often have lower vanities, which is one reason people feel their back after a few minutes at the basin. If you choose an above-counter basin, its rim adds height, so the cabinet may need to sit lower to keep the rim at a comfortable level.
Wall-hung or floor-standing?
Wall-hung vanities float off the floor. They make a small room look bigger, are easier to mop under, and let you set the height to suit the household. They need solid fixing: timber noggins or studs placed in the wall before it is lined, and the fixing detail should be planned before tiling.
Floor-standing vanities sit on legs or a recessed kickboard. They usually offer a bit more storage, feel very solid, and are forgiving on walls where fixing is difficult. Legs make cleaning easier than a full plinth; a kickboard hides the floor junction.
For families with young children who climb, either type works if it is properly fixed. The choice is more about cleaning, look and storage than strength.
Storage: drawers beat doors
In almost every bathroom, drawers are more useful than doors. Everything is visible from above, nothing gets lost at the back, and a deep lower drawer takes hairdryers and bulk items. Things to ask about:
- A shaped or notched top drawer that wraps around the waste pipe, so you do not lose the whole top drawer to plumbing
- Soft-close runners rated for daily use
- Drawer dividers for small items
- An open shelf or niche for towels if the room has no linen cupboard
If cleaning products will live in the vanity, plan a child-safety latch on one drawer or keep them in a high cabinet instead.
Top materials
Engineered stone has been banned in Australia since 1 July 2024, so it is no longer an option for new tops. The main choices now are:
- Compact laminate — thin, very hard-wearing and water-resistant; a practical all-rounder
- Standard laminate — the budget choice; fine if the edges and cut-outs are well sealed
- Porcelain slab — hard, stain-resistant and heat-resistant, with stone-look finishes; edges and cut-outs need a skilled fabricator
- Solid surface — can be moulded with an integrated basin so there is no joint to clean; scratches can often be sanded out
- Natural stone — beautiful, but most types need periodic sealing and can mark from acids and hair dyes
- Timber — warm, but needs a good finish and care around the basin
For a busy family bathroom, compact laminate, porcelain and solid surface give the best balance of toughness and upkeep.
Basin types
- Undermount — sits below the top so you can wipe water straight into the basin; needs a top that can be cut and sealed underneath
- Above-counter (vessel) — sits on top as a feature; easy to install, but the rim adds height and the joint around the base needs cleaning
- Semi-recessed — partly sits into the top and overhangs the front; useful on slim vanities because it gains basin depth without a deeper cabinet
- Inset (drop-in) — the rim rests on the top; simple and forgiving
- Integrated — basin and top are one moulded piece; the easiest to keep clean
Think about splash. A shallow basin with a high-flow tap will splash onto the bench and floor; a deeper bowl is more forgiving for children washing hands.
Tap placement
Benchtop-mounted taps go through the top or the basin. They are simple, easy to replace, and suit most basin types. Leave room behind the tap to wipe.
Wall-mounted taps keep the top clear and look tidy, but the mixer body has to be set in the wall before it is lined, at the right height, and the spout length must reach the centre of the basin. Get this wrong and water hits the back of the bowl or the bench. Choose the basin before the plumber does the rough-in.
Whichever you choose, pick tapware from a range with spare parts available, so a worn cartridge is a cheap repair rather than a new tap and patched tiles.
Materials that cope with a steamy room
- Moisture-resistant board for the carcass, with every edge sealed, including cut-outs for pipes
- Laminate, thermolaminate or two-pack door and drawer fronts
- Handles that are easy to grip and clean, or finger-pull profiles
- An exhaust fan ducted outside, which protects the vanity as much as the ceiling
A quick checklist before you order
- Wall length measured, with door, shower and toilet clearances marked
- Waste and water positions noted
- Width, depth and finished height decided
- Wall-hung fixing planned, if relevant
- Top material chosen with upkeep in mind
- Basin and tap chosen together, before rough-in
Getting it built
If you are planning a vanity as part of a wider renovation, see our vanities and storage service and the bathroom renovations page. For how budgets are worked out, see the price page. If you are in the Campbelltown area, we can measure up and quote it.
Questions people ask before they commit
What is the most common bathroom vanity size?
Stock vanities are usually sold in widths of 600, 750, 900, 1,200 and 1,500 mm, with some ranges going to 1,800 mm. A standard depth is roughly 450 to 500 mm, with slim units around 300 to 400 mm for narrow rooms.
How high should a bathroom vanity be?
Most finished vanity tops sit somewhere around 850 to 900 mm from the floor. Taller adults often prefer the upper end, and an above-counter basin adds its own height, so allow for that when setting the cabinet.
Is a wall-hung vanity strong enough?
Yes, when it is fixed into studs or solid noggins installed before the wall is lined. It is the fixing, not the cabinet, that carries the load, so plan the timber in the wall before tiling.
Should the tap go on the benchtop or the wall?
A benchtop tap is simpler, cheaper to replace and suits most basins. A wall-mounted tap keeps the top clear and easy to wipe, but the plumbing must be set before the wall is lined and the spout length matched to the basin.
What vanity top can I use now engineered stone is banned?
Engineered stone has been banned in Australia since 1 July 2024. Common alternatives are compact laminate, standard laminate, porcelain slab, solid surface and natural stone, each with different trade-offs in toughness and upkeep.